The newly launched Moreno at Baglioni restaurant situated inside Kensington’s lush Baglioni London Hotel sees two Michelin star Italian chef, Moreno Cedroni, share his avant garde Italian cuisine for the first time outside Italy.
I found my recent dinner at Moreno to be one of the most noteworthy and enjoyable meals I’ve had in quite some time, and a lovely venue for a “date night.” During my visit, my dining companion and I were looked after attentively by the hotel and restaurant staff. From our first sip of bubbly Bellavista until the moment we headed out the door, I left confident to recommend the restaurant to couples looking for somewhere to have a romantic meal.
Chef Cedroni and his London kitchen capably guided my and my dates expectations along a splendid route of inventive and clean tasting palate pleasers. A starter course of tortellini filled with 24 month aged liquid Parmesan with finely chopped raw beef, tomato sauce and balsamic jam (£9) is a most delightful dish (a main course version is available for £15). I’d have it again (and again, in fact). That burst of the liquid parmesan accompanying each bite of pasta was true, edible joy.
Other bright moments included sampling our way throughout Moreno’s Sushi & Susci starter course (£25). Featuring eight “small recipes” from the chef’s own Sushi & Susci cookbook, the handsomely arranged plate featured an array of finely crafted and especially flavoursome morsels. To be honest, I wasn’t in love every bite I had, but each one intrigued impressively. And the ones that I did like, I still crave.
For example, salted cod dressed in “its mayonnaise” with cherry tomatoes, black olives and fried wild rice was a winning creation. As for its mayonnaise, I’m not sure how the chef does it but somehow Cedroni manages to make an especially creamy mayonnaise by using a dish’s main ingredient instead of eggs. Another – octopus salad dressed with its mayonnaise, jelly bread and steamed vegetables – was amazing too … and maybe my favourite piece from our plate of Sushi & Susci.
I loved my main as well. Fritto misto with sweet and sour quinoa, white onion sorbet and light raspberry broth (£22.50) looked pretty and yielded fascinating and unusual flavours. For dessert, a shared order of Castagnoli (fried profiteroles filled with Chantilly cream served with chocolate and lime sauce and tangerine sorbet, £8) surprised. Utterly delicious … and a lot lighter and more delicate than it comes across printed on the menu.
Few other marvels set among the dining area’s plush interior accentuated by Murano glass chandeliers and candelabras added to our overall glowing dining experience at Moreno, but I’ll leave a bit of discovery for any discerning readers keen to give this fine restaurant a go.
Moreno at Baglioni is located at the Baglioni Hotel London, 60 Hyde Park Gate, SW7 5BB. Find out more at the restaurant’s webpage on the Baglioni Hotels website.
Written by Chris Osburn